P7+Kimono

P7 Kimono By Callie C Kate H

__Dress and Appearance__ During the Samurai Age, the dress and appearance of the Japanese became advanced and their idea of perfect was developed. The patterns on the kimono showed the Japanese attempt at perfection. After the Miyabi were established, the Japanese goal of perfection became evident through the intricate methods of making the kimono. A samurai’s appearance was of utmost importance since it displayed their honor immediately. Some fashion trends developed during the Kamura period, which had an effect on Japanese dressing for a long time after. Someone’s social status would instantly be clear once seeing a person’s clothing. Social status and dressing became cause and effect of each other. Japanese clothing varied greatly among social status. During the Kamura Period the typical warrior uniform consisted of a hunting jacket, kariginu, and a cloak. In the Bakufu social structure samurais were on the top, so they had more comfortable and nice clothing. Commoners often wore simple outfits consisting of a smock, trousers, and an overcoat. This is because commoners did not have a high ranking, so they could not wear as much comfortable or nice clothes. Commonly used clothing by people of all classes was the kosode, or kimono, it came to be known during its widespread use in the 18th century. Women's formal attire included the uchiki robe and bakama skirt-trousers with kosode, a silk garment with short sleeves added to the ensemble at a later time. Mens kimono is seldom worn. Laws prohibit common people from wearing luxurious fabrics and brilliant colors because you have to be a high rank in the social structure to wear luxurious fabrics. Commoner’s attire was uncomfortable. Women commoners often wore kimonos with girdles called yumaki, and often layered if the weather demanded. Commoners sometimes went barefoot or wore straw sandals called ashinaka. As time went on, new styles for the Japanese culture developed. From the Kamura Period to the mid- 19th century the Japanese have developed many new styles. Toward the end of the period the government placed restrictions on such flashy attire. This caused citizens to modify their standards of prostitutes who often received kisho-bori tattoos or pledge marks to indicate their favorite clients. These forms of art reached their artistic and popular peak during the mid-19th century. Tattoos became trendy among townspeople and it is conceivable why because they had colorful designs that covered an extensive portion of the body. It took great skill to make tattoos and the artist who had mastered it were called horishi. After the tattoos a final type of fashion accessory was the fan or uchiwa. This was used in a wide range of contexts, including within battle, during ceremonies, and as a personal accessories. Folding fans, or ogi, were status symbols that were also used in a variety of setting, including dance performances, theatrical productions, and tea ceremonies. With the new fashion styles that developed during this time, also came new patterns for the clothing. __**Patterns on Kimono**__ For the Japanese dressing style, the patterns shown on the kimono represent their idea of being perfect. Although the kimono is commonly associated with Japanese dressing, the luxurious fabrics and elaborate patterns were reserved for the elite. There was a good deal of thought that went into the making of the kimono. This was especially important since the kimono-maker had to create allover repeated designs and these designs had to concentrate on bottom of sleeves hem area. The stitching also created small-scale repeated textures and patterns. This detailed dressing style reflected the goal to achieve perfection through the Miyabi. A code of courtly manners was developed during the Heian Period and these were the Miyabi. In order to be considered perfect one must have elaborate clothing and make-up. Since this manner was developed the clothing and patterns became much more intricate in attempt to be perfect. As a result of a man being lower than a samurai in social status, their clothing was less extravagant. In spite of a coat for a man not having repeated designs, the coat was asymmetrical giving the false illusion of depth. Not only are the designs of the kimono intricate, but the process of making the kimono was too very tedious. __**Making the Kimono**__ The process for making the Japanese clothing was very complex. Over the years, the Japanese accumulated a few different techniques for making the kimono. For the urban merchants dressing, the dyes are painted on with brushes and none are applied through immersion in a dye bath. Two of the methods that were developed are the Yuzen technique and the Tsutsugaki method. For the Yuzen technique, the cotton fabric is dyed with indigo; this was typical of rural textiles. As a result of agricultural surplus, the rice was converted for different uses; one of them being a rice paste. Sometimes, rice paste is used as a resist to block out pattern areas on the clothing. The Tsutsugaki method is another way to decorate the kimono and this is a freehand technique. The Japanese were very detailed and methodic as evident from the kimono making process. This was all in effort to obtain the awaited perfection they had been seeking. Japan didn’t stop their efforts at becoming perfect, just for the dress; but they also had an idea of a stellar appearance. __**Samurai Appearance**__ The Samurai appearance was very important to them, especially since it displayed their honor the first moment of contact. At 50-60 years of age; samurai still had a list of daily cleansing. This list was longer than what we do in a week. A samurai would bathe; shave their foreheads, lotion in their hair, cut their fingernails and toenails; which would then be rubbed with pumice and wood sorrel. In addition, the armor was in general kept free from rust, dusted, shined and arranged. Samurai must do this to look respectable when they serve there master. Also, since they follow the Bushido-“The Way of the Warrior” their honor is arguably the most important trait to a samurai. The hardest part of the cleansing would probably be to keep the armor from rusting. When Tokugawa Ieyasu closed Japan’s doors for 200 years of unity and growth, samurai became magistrates and the armor was no longer needed. Still, a samurai’s pride must be apparent from the first moment of contact. Whether it is the traditional design of their fine clothes or the personal appearance that is well taken care of; a samurai must remain honorable. With the help of the Miyabi, the Samurai Period achieved the perfection from the dresses and appearances that developed during that time.
 * __Introduction__**
 * __Social Status__ **
 * __Fashion Styles__ **

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__**Citations**__ Deal, William E. Handbook to Life in Medieval and Early Modern Japan. New York: Facts on File, INC. 2006. Loudon,Sara. "Instructional Resources: Wearable Arts of Japan Seattle Art Museum." __Art Education.__ Vol 49. No 6, (Nov 1996) : 25-32. __JSTOR.__ Cary Academy Library, Cary, NC. 27 Mar 2009 <[]>. Turnbull, Stephen. Warrior of Medieval Japan. New York: Osprey Publishing. 2005